Sometimes More Means More: Winemaker Hans Hengerer on Junges Schwaben

It’s an interesting conundrum for German winemakers.

The average size vineyard in Germany is about five acres. Consequently, many of the very best German wines never leave the country, their region, or even the town where they are produced. It’s why regions have co-ops to gather grapes from so many of these winegrowers, and it’s why winemakers like Hans Hengerer have joined forces with others to broaden their experience and better their wine.

At a wine gathering a few months ago, I first heard of a group of five winemakers known as Junges Schwaben. From available literature and word of mouth, I learned that this group was experienced, but progressive and a very mixed group of winemakers who have joined together to maximize experience, strengthen their individuality and make even better wine.

In a recent interview with Hengerer, I had the opportunity to learn more about Junges Schwaben, taste a range of Hengerer’s wines and even join his friends to sample some auction-procured 1971 German wines – all in all one of my most memorable wine experiences in Germany thus far.

A winery with history

According to the Heilbronn town chronicle, the Kistenmacher & Hengerer winery dates back to 1504. For generations, Hengerer’s family has nurtured approximately 20 acres alongside the Neckar River, producing an assortment of wines that range from traditional regional specialties such as Riesling and Trollinger to less familiar ones like Clevner, a grape related to pinot noir. His family has built a name and tradition for producing the best quality grapes that can grow there. Hengerer is a purist when it comes to winemaking. Much of his wine goes unfiltered and without finishing processes that would manipulate and resolve weaknesses in the fruit. Instead he aims for growing…well, perfect fruit.

As I write this, I can imagine this seemingly humble man chuckling a little that someone would describe him this way, but Hengerer talks about his wine with clear passion and conviction.

“The secret to good wine is good grapes,” he says matter-of-factly. “You need old vineyards to make a good quality wine. You need time. It’s a human thing to want to accelerate it, but manipulating it—that’s not wine; that’s an industrial product. I want to make the best wine.”

Sometimes that means determining whether wine trends are helpful or not. While many winemakers these days are returning to former organic and biodynamic approaches in fertilizing and pest control, Hengerer points out that the solutions aren’t always clear-cut. Organic vintners opt for copper as pest-control, which is what his ancestors used generations ago in the same manner. However, that approach requires perhaps 15 treatments compared to newer pesticides that Hengerer needs only apply 6-8 times and believes are safe and effective. He quotes an environmental impact study that the local community school conducted that said bringing out farm equipment more often to fertilize and control for pests and mold negates the eco benefits that an organic vineyard is striving for. Additionally, Hengerer believes the copper is a heavy metal with its own consequences.

“For me, it’s like if I went to a hospital. I wouldn’t say I want to be treated the same way you would have treated me 150 years ago. There, I am happy that today we have things that are much better than years ago. And here it is the same.”

And that’s not to say that Hengerer is against change. He can still recall when as a child he saw heavy rainstorms wash valuable vineyard topsoil down the sewer. And climate change has moved up harvest times, presenting new problems. But he looks at winemaking recommendations for progress individually, deciding which ones will work for him and which won’t.

“Twenty years ago, winemakers were happy about every single grape that was hanging on the plant. It would have been a big, big problem if you wanted to reduce some grapes to make a green harvest,” Hengerer says, noting the higher quality wines that came from the 2009 and 2010 lower-yielding vintages. “Today, it’s totally different. You have to say less is more.”

But the clearest indication that Hengerer is a winemaker who embraces change is his involvement in Junges Schwaben.

Swabian winemakers coveting good ideas

Hengerer is quick to note that the five members of Junges Schwaben are very different Individuals (yes, with a capitol “I”). He makes his Riesling lean and “elegant,” which he contrasts with Remstal-based Jochen Beurer, whose Riesling is “big and fat” and utilizing ambient yeasts.

“We have different opinions. The good thing is that Jochen didn’t have to marry me, so it works,” he laughs. “Every winery has a different structure, but we all realized we could move faster together than working by ourselves alone. We are totally different guys. But it’s always a good thing when we go on a big tour, and it is big fun.”

The group started in 2001 when Hengerer and Rainer Wachstetter were talking about how to participate in ProWein, a global wine trade fair in Dusseldorf that was too expensive to participate alone. They knew of another winemaker friend in the region, Jürgen Zipf, who then thought of two others – Beurer and Sven Ellwanger, located in a region further south in Württemberg. Since then, the group travels to a different European locale each year to meet other winemakers and get new ideas outside the area. More importantly, they serve as a sounding board for one another. They also have a Junges Schwaben line of wines, with each selecting a wine that is representative of his personal style or region.

“Everyone wants to make the best wine. That’s the reason why we are together and why the group works. There is a little bit of competition, but we have respect for one another. It’s not that we get jealous. We are happy for each other’s successes,” Hengerer says. “I don’t want to copy the others…I want to go my own way. Everyone is very interested when we taste each other’s cellars…everyone is listening and discussing what’s new and what will bring a better final product. We are still learning all the time.”

In forming this group, they have only furthered their individual recognition. Hengerer has heard other winemakers too are forming similar unions and that doesn’t surprise him. When he first started in winemaking, his training took him to other vineyards in the region and even nine months in South Africa, so this seems like a natural evolution.

He laughs when I ask about the group’s name and what they will do when they become old Swabians. “We’re not called the young guys, it’s about the young region. People just want to read ‘young guys.’  In our profession it is not bad if you have some experience. We are not making something every two weeks, like someone who might make a piece of furniture. If he makes something wrong, he can start the next one. We have once a year, our picking time and the possibility to make a good wine. And if it doesn’t work, well then, we wait for next year. But you need a lot of times to get enough experience. Every year we learn more.”

For more information about Hans Hangerer’s wines or the Junges Schwaben go to: http://www.kistenmacher-hengerer.de/ or http://www.junges-schwaben.de/

Trollinger: Germany’s Unique Red Wine

Go to any festival, wine bar or even biergarten in Germany’s Stuttgart area, and one is likely to encounter a bit of a puzzle: loads of Germans drinking a local wine that looks frighteningly like cherry Kool-aid. Found almost nowhere else but here, Trollinger (pr. traw-ling-GER) is ubiquitous in the Württemberg region, and Swabians love it. According to the German Wine Institute’s latest statistics, Germany now only grows this grape in Württemberg, and outside Germany, one can only find this grape in northern Italy as Schiava or perhaps in Austria, known as Vernatsch. So, basically this odd wine grape is, well, rare.

My German friend Petra scowls when I say this because she, like many wine lovers – even in this region – finds Trollinger not very tasty and its popularity bewildering. Trollinger’s dubious reputation is apparently renowned. I can still recall the first time I contacted the Dutch Wine Institute about another story and merely mentioned Swabians’ love for Trollinger. In addition to what seemed like a chuckle, the spokesperson said something akin to “oh those Württembergers and their Trollinger…they love their Trollinger; they drink it like water.”

And indeed they do. In Württemberg, 21.2 percent of the vineyards are devoted to Trollinger grapes – one of the region’s top three grapes.

Consider this: according to Edmund Penning-Rowsell in German Wine Atlas and Vineyard Register, “Despite its extensive growing area, Württemberger wine is hardly known outside the country. The reason is not hard to discover: in Württemberg, consumption of wine is almost three times as large as its production; and as the Swabian lives by the precept ‘you should never wait until you’re thirsty,’ the drinking of the daily quarter carafe (which quickly becomes a three-quarter one) is a necessary routine.”

Good for a Roman party…
Most believe that Trollinger arrived in southern German during Roman times. Fourteenth century documents, including a papal legate report that Martin Luther drank it in 1520, show it has made the rounds. Initially, the grape was all over Germany but used as a table grape for eating, not winemaking. Most believe the name is a transformation of “Tirol-inger,” because the grape originated in Tirol, Italy.

And though it is not the easiest grape to grow, it has a high yield. In fact, most would say it has too high a yield to produce good quality grapes. Many winemakers will thus reduce the yield to improve quality. Like Riesling and Lemberger, the two other top grapes for this region, it is a late harvester, not ripe until October. However, the reward comes in the quick production of this wine. It doesn’t require long storage time, usually ready for drinking in about a year. Swabians drink Trollinger young, and they drink it cold too. This is not your typical red wine.

The Popularity of Trollinger
Trollinger is everywhere. Even at my local biergarten where beer is clearly the order of the day, one will see large numbers of people consuming glassfuls of this bright ruby-colored beverage that is most definitely an acquired taste if one hasn’t grown up drinking it. I used to think only the older Swabians drank this wine, but then I encountered a group, Trollinger 2.0, at our annual Weindorf who disagreed. It’s a wine for everyone.

And perhaps that’s because Trollinger really is a unique red wine. Trollinger is undeniably red in color. However, it’s not a purply, blackish abyss of a wine. Rather it’s like a shiny ruby that reminds one more of a switched-on light, illuminating its special viertele glass mug in which they serve wine in Swabian Germany. Trollinger is served cold and reminds one more of a strong rosé. Additionally, though many will describe this wine as fresh and fruity, it can finish with a medicine-y bitterness that has caused at least one friend of mine to compare it to cough syrup.

“But that’s why it’s better blended,” says my friend Petra.

In fact, I put Petra’s advice to the test. Many times I have tasted and tried to appreciate the “fragrant,” “light and fruity” qualities of this popular wine, only to come away with a feeling that someone had transformed wild cherry cough drops into a beverage. I didn’t see how a medium-bodied red wine, such as Lemberger (the blending wine of choice), could possibly tame the Trollinger. How wrong I was. The addition of Lemberger makes Trollinger incredibly drinkable. Still served chilled, it presents a wine that is refreshing. The wine now seemed to have that reported “floral fragrance.” It did seem light and bright. It felt more berry than wild cherry. This was a wine I could see surviving centuries of get-togethers, barbecues and Sunday biergarten afternoons.

I have read that more Trollinger is blended than consumed on its own. However, my own anecdotal reports would indicate that local restaurant wine menus and grocery store offerings don’t correspond with this theory. Someone – nay – a lot of people are drinking Trollinger all by its lonesome, and it’s clear that they love it.

Not so long ago, my husband, his brother and I went to a wine bar where the choices were red, white or pink. As the men chose “red,” it was easy to see that Trollinger was the wine du jour. After several hours and a few vierteles of laughing and talking with newfound friends there at our table, they proclaimed the wine “fantastic.” As my husband said, “its all about the experience.”

Indeed, as Petra and I walked our dogs together, we encountered another friend who learned I was writing about Trollinger. Her response? “I love Trollinger. I always have so much fun when I drink it.”

So perhaps that’s the lesson here. Trollinger may not be the best of wines, but for some inexplicable reason, people love it and do seem to have a very good time when they drink it.

My Springtime Friend: Müller-Thurgau

Simple, light and bright, this particular Muller-Thurgau was slightly effervescent -- perfect for a balmy spring day.

Here in Germany, crocus are sprouting, garden centers are awakening to the newfound frenzy of people buying fledgling daffodils for their stark window boxes, and biergarten personnel are setting up tables and repainting woodwork. After at least 10 days of fairly mild and impossibly brilliant sunny weather, one can draw only one conclusion: spring is here. And for me, that means forsaking my pinot noir and other reds and bringing out a varietal that is as light and bright as the nascent season:  Müller-Thurgau

Yes, you read it right—it’s not a common varietal in most places, and I believe more wine connoisseurs seem to dismiss it rather than bother to taste it. For example, winegeeks.com says, “Müller-Thurgau has never been known for quality and is almost single-handedly responsible for the decline of Germany as a world power in fine wine production.” And unfortunately for this modest grape, its blessing is also its curse. In a time when we prize low yields and slow growers, this is a vine that produces much more fruit than its Riesling cousin and ripens two to three weeks earlier. Yes, it’s the perfect grape for cheap mass production, but it is also can produce wines with uncluttered simplicity that are, well, quite pleasant and quaffable.

And though it may be falling out of favor with its already limited masses, Müller-Thurgau is a pleasant, drinkable wine that is perfect for the spring. Many may argue why drink a Müller-Thurgau when Riesling is available? For me, the answer is easy. Sometimes this simple, undervalued wine is exactly right for the occasion. And that is why in many a German wine bar (better known as Weinstubes), the Müller-Thurgau still has a place on the menu. Yes, Germans love it!

A little bit of history…

For those unfamiliar with this varietal, Swiss Plant Physiologist Hermann Müller is credited for creating it in 1882, but how he did it has long fueled debate. Initially, many believed it was a Riesling/Silvaner mix to capture Riesling’s aromatics and acidity and the hardiness of Silvaner. This genesis was disproved ultimately, as were theories conjecturing it was a Riesling/Riesling or Riesling/Chasselas (Gutedel) mix. DNA evidence now has shown it is a blend of Riesling and Madeleine Royale, the latter being a cross between Pinot Noir and Trollinger. Oddly enough, despite that DNA evidence, the other common name for Müller-Thurgau is Rivaner, which is short for Riesling/Silvaner, so go figure. Truth does not prevail sometimes.

These days, the bulk of Müller-Thurgau is produced and consumed in Germany. Germany’s Rheinhessen region accounts for more than 4,000 hectares of the grape, but it is also popular in the Pfalz, Baden, Franken and Mosel regions. Other countries, like northern Italy, Austria, Croatia, England, Hungary, Luxembourg, New Zealand, Switzerland, Japan and even the U.S. (Oregon and Washington states) produce Müller-Thurgau. Some say it had its heyday in the ‘70s and ‘80s as part of Piesporter wines that were so popular then. However, each year, its acreage diminishes. For example, in 1980, Germany had 22,434 hectares of Müller-Thurgau vines. Today, it has 13,721 hectares as vineyards replace the grape with other varietals that like the same conditions, such as Riesling.

A good Müller-Thurgau

Robert Parker’s colleague, David Schildknecht notes in Parker’s Wine Buyer’s Guide No. 7 that “the much-maligned Müller-Thurgau can be distinctively delicious.” And I have found that indeed that is true. For me, it is best when it is young, having a smoothness and being dry to just a kiss of sweetness. It is a straw-colored wine that has a nutty aroma and fruity characteristics, particularly apple and peach. Like Portugal’s young and bright vinho verde wines, of which I am also a big fan, these wines can even convey a slight effervescence. But all in all, this varietal promises a simple, unfettered wine that feels crisp, clean and light. So, as I try to sit on my terrace with a wine goblet in hand, foolishly believing that the longer sunny days indicate time to open up my own patio-garten, I must also pull my fleece throw tighter around myself. I may be a little chilled like my wine, but warmer days are coming, and the wine feels just fine.

Maultaschen Magic

My landlady, Hanne, says that during Lent, Swabians eat Maultaschen for their Friday suppers. To many, eating these meat-laden German ravioli would seem rather unorthodox. However, according to Hanne, it’s a Swabian belief that God can’t see the filling because of the Maultaschen wrapping. Of course, upon relaying this saying today – my second year of coming to her house to make copious amounts of Maultaschen for the Lenten season – she smiles warmly and chuckles.  “Ah, you know this already,” she says. She told me the same joke last year, and it was just as cute then. However, I had to read online that the joke is so universal that Maultaschen have a nickname (not that it’s easy for someone like me to pronounce): Herrgottsbescheißerle. It translates as “Little Cheaters of the Lord.” Who says Germans don’t have a sense of humor?

Yes.  I adore my German landlady and her husband, Gert, so it is a coveted treat to come to her house and make Maultaschen dumplings. The Swabians have many ways to make these pasta darlings, but the most common is a meaty filling with spinach and parsley. They then can bathe the dumplings in meaty broth soup, pan sear them to enjoy alongside warm potato salad, slice and fry them to be enjoyed in a salad, or as Hanne likes, sliced and fried as leftovers with scrambled eggs.

Maultaschen, a Funny Word

So, a couple of theories purport to own the term’s derivation. One hypothesis is that monks from Maulbronn created this sneaky Lenten culinary sensation. But also, quite obviously, maul is an animal’s mouth, and taschen means “purses” or “bags” in German. Together, the term translates as feedbags, which doesn’t quite make sense to me. All I know is that Maultaschen are definitely little bags filled with tasty morsels, and pretty much everyone loves to eat them here.

Since I have lived in Germany, our regional dish of Maultaschen was bestowed an award much like that given Champagne, Chianti, and many officially denoted regional delicacies. On Oct. 23, 2009, the Gazette of the European Communities proclaimed “Schwäbische Maultaschen” or “Schwäbische Suppenmaultaschen (g.g.A.)” a recognized “regional specialty,” officially conferring its cultural significance to Baden-Württemberg. Literally, that means genuine Maultaschen have to be produced in Swabia, Baden-Württemberg, or the Swabian speaking areas of Bavaria. Otherwise, you just have to call them ravioli.

In Hanne’s kitchen…

Last year, we made 150+ Maultaschen at Hanne’s. Though she bought wrapper dough from her local bakery, the filling was carefully and lovingly attended to. She had purchased her Maultaschen mixture of ground meats (ground beef, ground bacon and ground schinkenwurst) and set about to mixing that with leeks, onions, old rolls she had soaked in water, spinach, parsley, green onions, macerated pork meat, eggs, nutmeg, salt and pepper. (See recipe below)  By mid-day, we had finished filling our little “feedbags,” and were celebrating with a bit of Maultaschensuppe and local sparkling wine aka Sekt.

This year, however, Hanne had clearly determined I was experienced enough to make not only our usual amount of standard Maultaschen, but a salmon recipe and a recipe with quark cheese, a fresh cheese that is used to make cheesecakes here. We ran out of wrapper dough by mid-day and had to sweet-talk the bakery into a second batch (they require 24 hours’ notice usually, Hanne said) and set out for more. Clearly enjoying being in the throes of this Swabian culinary adventure, Hanne insisted we must also bake her signature Hefezopf, a local bread that tastes much like Panettone and looks like a sweet Challah, dotted with big white granules of sugar and softened raisins. I diligently sat at Hanne’s marble counter, cutting four-by-four inch squares of dough, filling them with heaping teaspoons of our mixtures, folding them closed (mostly) and piling them for Hanne to boil and then await packaging. Our estimate? We made more than 200 Maultaschen, two Hefezopf and a few liters of meaty broth by 5 p.m. With Sekt mixed with Compari to spur us on, we had more than enough Maultaschen to get through 40 days and nights. What a feast, and now many of my good friends would benefit from the spoils of this day of labor!

Maultaschen

4  Onions, chopped

200-250g  Maultaschen Mix (equal parts of ground beef, schinkenwurst, and American-style bacon aka Frühstück Speck)

Cook the onions and meat until meat is just barely cooked and onions are translucent.

5  Crusty, old Tafelbrotchen (rolls that look similar to Kaiser rolls), soaked in water until soft

3  Leeks, chopped

500g  Spinach, chopped

1 bunch  Parsley, chopped

3-4  Spring onions

200g  Bratwurstbrät (the macerated meat that is baked into Fleischkäse).

Freshly ground nutmeg

Salt & Pepper

Mix all of this with your hands in a very large bowl until well blended, including the cooked meat and onions. Then add in and mix well:

6-8  Eggs

At this point, unroll Bakery-produced dough. Cutting the dough into four-by-four inch squares, place a heaping teaspoon on each square. Wet the edges of the dough, and squeeze the dumpling closed. In a large pot of water that has been simmering during all this preparation, throw in the dumplings. They are done when they rise to the top – approximately 7-10 minutes. Guten Appetit!!

As if making three types of Maultaschen weren't enough, Hanne made two Swabian Hefezopfen.

A sparkling drink to help keep us Maultaschen making until late into the afternoon.

Delightfully Delicious: Remstal Omas’ Kitchen Treasures

There are two things to be learned from my experience with the Remstaler Küchenschätze:  Swabian grandmas are delightful cooks; and locals just don’t appreciate their Omas nearly enough.

The Remstal Route has paired local chefs’ favorite Swabian grandma recipes with some of Remstal’s best wines in a promotional event that started Feb. 25^th and goes until March 27^th. For a meal, 12 euros and under, patrons experience one of “Grandma’s” treasured recipes channeled through chefs who normally prepare meals where the appetizer costs about that much.

If my experience today at the Hotel Restaurant Lamm in Remshalden is any indication of what the other 19 involved restaurants are preparing, then I encourage those who don’t have a Swabian grandma to take note.

The Ambience

Remshalden is probably not a close drive for most folks, and it’s definitely not the easiest train trek. However, the Hotel Restaurant Lamm had few vacant tables at 1 p.m. when my friend and I were departing. With waitresses in bright-colored dirndls and waiters donning traditional clothing as well, the restaurant was an elegant setting of Tudor design that seemed perfect for enjoying a traditional meal. Surprisingly, our waiter and “chef de rang” Angel, said that today only we had ordered the Oma Special, as I called it. In fact, since the promotion began, the restaurant mysteriously has only sold about 10 of these meals, but that definitely is no reflection on the quality.

The Meal

Starting with a Hebsacker “Linnenbronn” Riesling Kabinett from nearby Weingut W. Haidle in Kernen-Stetten, we were treated to a perfectly chilled and very minerally white wine whose nose reminded me of river stones in a babbling brook. Bright and refreshing, the wine proved a very good match for the home-made, oversized maultaschen filled this time with blood sausage and topped with a roast onion sauce and crispy, toasted onions.  Alongside was sauerkraut – not your ordinary sauerkraut, but a creamy, really roasted ‘kraut and warm, comfort-filled mashed potatoes. We can get ordinary maultaschen anywhere, and mashed potatoes and sauerkraut don’t seem so special, but as my guest Karolina noted, it was all perfectly done. And maybe that’s where Grandma aka Oma comes into play.  What grandmas everywhere seem to cook best is simple fare that is based on quality, fresh ingredients that showcase their natural flavor and style. Our meals provided no fanfare; in fact, Angel seemed almost disappointed or even bored by the order. Among a menu of fancier fare, we were opting to stick with old-fashioned food. And it was delicious.

So, if you want to step back in time and pretend you are a young Swabian experiencing Oma’s unique goulash, special sauerbraten or secret recipe Sunday roast, this Remstal event is a good way to do just that while also tasting interesting regional wines. The wines were an added 3 euros at this restaurant and not the typical ¼ liter or viertele that is served customarily around here. But that was probably a good thing since we opted to drive.  In fact, only 8 of the 20 restaurants involved in this promotion are less than a 15-minute walking distance of an S-Bahn station, so public transportation can pose a challenge. In other words, be prepared to drive for Oma-like home cookin’. For more information, Remstal Route has a pdf flyer on its Web site with the participating restaurants, their Oma offering, and addresses and opening hours (http://www.remstal-route.de/fileadmin/user_upload/PDF/Kuechenschaetze_2011.pdf). Bottomline, it’s a cheap way to get a delicious taste of Swabian culture, and what grandmother wouldn’t like that?

 

 

Remstal Delights

With a warming sun and bright blue sky, the day felt more like one suited for hiking than tasting wines, but what’s a gal to do when she’s got tickets to one of the biggest wine events in the Rems Valley in Germany?

I’d heard about Rems Valley aka Remstal wines, but I had yet to really try them, so the event made for a perfect opportunity to do just that. Though hundreds of people had the same idea, the Remstal Weintreffen proved to be a wonderful experience and introduction to the region.

Differentiating itself from other wine festivals in this region, the Remstal Weintreffen is held indoors and wine tasters pay an admission fee to attend. Instead of “tasting” wine by the viertel or quarter-liter glass, this gathering truly dispenses no-cost “samples,” so that one can really experience many wines. In fact, spittoons are generously provided to encourage people to taste and spit, so they can taste some more. And more is indeed what is available here. With 53 wineries represented, which are largely considered to be the best from this region, the number of impressive wines to choose from is, well, overwhelming.

If I could talk to a winemaker…

As someone whose German is pretty awful, it was quite a treat to work what German I knew and find folks who spoke English well enough to learn about the wine. In fact, one winemaker, Jochen Beurer had intrigued me as I researched the winemakers prior to the event.  He has created a unique niche in winemaking, using only ambient yeast to ferment his wine. Consequently, the wines are very slow to develop, but the result is quite noticeable and tasty. So, lucky for me, he was there, and he spoke English. I got to taste two of his Rieslings, one of which was bottled only two weeks ago and learn more about his experiences with his vineyard that is now biodynamically farmed, which means the wines are organic and also the vineyard must utilize only byproducts of itself to sustain itself (e.g., fertilizers and treatments for pests are derived from the vineyard itself). Also harvesting is synced with lunar cycles or other astronomic cues. The idea behind biodynamic farming is to think about sustainability, so it was interesting to hear from Winemaker Beurer about his challenges while tasting his successes firsthand.

But, he wasn’t the only winemaker I was able to chat with. At Weingut H.Bader, the owners there also spoke English and were quick to discuss winemaking trends, such as “slow food” in this region and banter about American culture, such as Paris Hilton’s visit to Stuttgart this week. Hans Bader’s winemaking has been described as “consistent” and “reliable,” and the feinherb or half-dry Riesling that we sampled there was probably a good indicator of that, he said, crediting the “slow” approach that his organic winery has taken to producing its wine.

While I only tried a fraction of the wine at this well-organized event, here were my big winners from my day. (Full disclosure here: there were far more wines to try than I was able to do so, but those listed here are truly noteworthy.)

Weingut Schnaitmann, which purportedly has the best, or one of the best, pinot noirs in the region, does indeed make great red wine. If you want a beefy red blend or an impressive pinot noir, his Spätburgunder is wonderfully robust. It did win my personal award for best red of the day.

Weingut Hof-Mayerle produced a Lemberger Rose that was dry, refreshing and utterly quaffable. Definitely this was my winner for a pinkish summer wine or something to accompany a spicy meal.

For whites, my favorites included the Beurer and H. Bader Rieslings, but also a great Spatlese (later harvest) blend from Weingut Jürgen Ellwanger known as Kreation Esprit. The bouquet is beautifully aromatic thanks to the addition of Muskat, I believe, and it’s just a luscious, very tropical white that was hard to merely sample.

For those who read this blog tonight or early tomorrow, the weintreffen continues Sunday until 7 p.m. It’s 19 euros at the door and pretty easy to get to by S-bahn and bus. Many of these wines are only sold in the region, so don’t be surprised if you can’t find them again once returning to your own corner of Stuttgart. In fact, that’s why we got contact information for some of our favorite winemakers as they are often the only source of some of these great wines.  For more information, see http://www.remstal-route.de/15-Weintreff.411.0.html and  Zum Wohl!

Say Cheers to Württemberg’s Best Wine This Weekend

It wasn’t so long ago that I was living in Florida and wondering why all my German friends thought I would possibly enjoy wine from their native country. I pictured a blue nun and hulking black tower-like wine bottle with cloyingly, syrupy fluid that I’d never come to love. I’d move to Germany and have to find French, Italian and Spanish wines to sustain me because I could never learn to love Deutschwein.

Photo credit: Weingut Juergen Ellwanger

Well.

Sometimes one has to trust her friends…especially when they know what they are talking about.

Today, I may be one of German wine’s biggest fans, delighting in the new varietals that never make their way to the United States and exploring many hidden gems. While the Germans are famous for their Eiswein, which is very sweet, and the German wines sold in the states have traditionally been very sweet, much of the wine here is indeed dry, complex and quite quaffable.  Those less acquainted with German wines may think they are all sweet, or that it’s too cold in Germany to make a good red wine, but that just isn’t the case. And sadly, they don’t even bother exploring.

Well, perhaps that’s a reason to come to the Rems valley this weekend better known as the Remstal subregion of Württemberg and just a short S-bahn ride northeast of downtown Stuttgart. This weekend is the annual Weintreffen where the best of the region come to have their wine tasted, discussed and tasted some more. Unlike many wine fests in the area, this one has an admission fee of 19 Euros/day at the door; however, this does include your tasting.

And if you are thinking this will merely be a gaggle of Rieslings and the local light-bodied red wine known as Trollinger, think again. Pinot noir fans, your day has come. Approximately 50 of the best winemakers will be on hand, and several of them have 90+ rated red wine blends and pinot noir, which is known as Spätburgunder in German. In fact, Herr Ranier Schnaitmann is one of the youngest winemakers in the region and purportedly makes the best pinot noir in Württemberg, according to the German wine critics at Gault-Millau. But he’s not the only youthful winemaker bringing more robust reds to the forefront in this region. The range of wines at this weekend’s gathering spans from white and red blends known as cuvées to sparkling Sekt, dry Rosé, a selection of whites to include riesling as well as grassy müller-thurgau, and red varietals that are familiar as merlot and cabernet, but also lesser know, such as zweigelt, St. Laurent, mitos and acolon.

For wine lovers and wine explorers, die Besten aus dem Remstal seems like it may be a good place to meet your new favorite Württemberg wine.

Details

When: 11 a.m.-7 p.m. both Saturday and Sunday.

Where: Alte Kelter Fellbach, Untertürkheimer Str 33, 70734 Fellbach  (Accessible via S-Bahns 2 & 3 with Bus 60)

Cost: 19 Euros/day or 27 Euros/weekend pass

More info at: http://www.remstal-route.de/15-Weintreff.411.0.html

 

Saying Tschüss to Biergarten season

Sparklers adorned the gratis cheese and sausage platters as part of the festive farewell.

So here we all are…gemütlichkeit (cozy) in fleece jackets and sweaters, gathered close to the space heaters that illuminate blue and orange high above us.  It’s a chilly autumn evening with fallen leaves mixing with gravel beneath our feet, and yet we are sitting outside in the dark evening with ‘fest beers, Weiss beers, Riesling wine and hard cider, and spirits are high as a band alternates from traditional German tunes to today’s Top 40.  It’s impossible not to smile at the people dancing, laughing and talking so animatedly.  But, it’s also the last weekend of biergarten season at this, my neighborhood watering hole, and I’d be lying if I didn’t say I was a little melancholy.

I live around the corner from the Schwabengarten, reportedly the second largest biergarten in Stuttgart, Germany. Despite its very large size, it always feels so comfortable.  It is pretty much an all-outside place to enjoy beer, local wines and Swabian food while children play in the playground, and sometimes even car shows, televised soccer games or live music entertain those who visit here.  But this weekend, it closes for the winter season.  We have our “Alm,” a sort of small lodge here that the owners added last year and that they left open through December, but though it’s also quite gemütlichkeit, it’s a different experience.

So, today, the owners give a little speech to begin our transition.  Next come cheese and sausage platters “on the house” accompanied by Sarah Brightman’s recording of  “Time to Say Goodbye.”  This leads in to the Russian composer Dmitri Shostakovich’s Jazz Suite No. 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZYhZVqODYsI) and fireworks that seem to be almost waltzing out of the sky and so close that I wonder if my hair will soon be alight.   Maybe it’s the dunkel weissbier I’m drinking or the fact that actors danced to this same song in Eyes Wide Shut, but I suddenly feel as if I am in a movie. My husband quickly agrees. The feeling only grows as we move into the Alm where the band Red Lounge has a very full dance floor of patrons that seem just as happy to gyrate to Kool and the Gang as they do to sway back and forth to German songs that everyone knows the words to, except for my husband and me.

Inside the Alm with the band, Red Lounge.

The place is packed and very warm.  Fleece peels off and people are bringing in more cold drinks.  The energy is palpable and it’s hard to reconcile my regret that has somehow been supplanted with deep-rooted gemütlichkeit. It’s a festive evening, and the owners smile and mingle with friends and family, making it also feel like a grand wedding reception that we have just crashed.  We know no one here, yet we don’t feel like strangers because it feels…well, inviting.  And that’s what we love about our biergarten.  It always has a bit of this feeling – from the hottest summer days to even these chillier ones.

So, we’re glad to be part of this seasonal farewell. And as we head for home back into the cold air, but warmed by the mood of the evening, we take heart and remind ourselves that biergarten season is but seven short months away.  Ah, something to get us through winter.

Oktoberfest ist hier!

OK–there’s no denying it — it’s beer season in Germany.  Though I may be a wine lover at heart, comforted by a hearty Zinfandel and relaxed with a crisp Riesling, I must admit that the pull of a German “Festbier” is strong.

This year, in honor of Oktoberfest’s 200^th birthday, I made the two and a half hour trek to Munich for its lederhosen-

Yup, Friday at 10 a.m. in an Oktoberfest beer tent, and the place is packed. already.

and dirndl-filled festivities for the first time. Here in Stuttgart, where I live, we have our own, not-at-all-modest Volksfest, which – as best as I can now tell – is exactly the same thing as Oktoberfest and only slightly smaller.

Some Fest background

For those unacquainted with Munich’s Oktoberfest, it is arguably the biggest party in the world each year.  King Ludwig I gets credit for starting Oktoberfest “officially” Oct. 12, 1810, when he and his bride invited “commoners” to BYOB and watch the horse races at their wedding reception.  Even then it was held in the same location as it is today though with a modest 40,000 happy revelers compared to today’s more than 6 million.

In modern times Oktoberfest has become a conglomeration of 14 official “tents” or temporary beer halls, an assortment of amusement park rides and fair food galore. As my friend Marcy who was visiting from Virginia said, it looks like a giant state fair.  However…I have been to many fairs.  I have written about fairs.  This is no ordinary fair.  The structures look and feel permanent and the merriment from revelers is pervasive.

Inside the tents are a main floor filled with as many benches and tables as possible, such that my Arsch felt like it was touching the boisterous Italian man’s behind me. Above, is a second floor that rings around the room with even more seating, and there is also seating outside.  In the case of the Hofbräu-Festzelt, that adds up to room for approximately 10,000 people, making it the largest tent in the Fest.  Yet, believe it or not, these tents require reservations long before September for evenings and weekend days because they are completely filled!

Ein Prosit! Notice my friends' red and white shirts. Those are for Stuttgart. The Bavarians wear blue and white checkered shirts.

Of course, no tent is complete without a stage for its band.  And while most would expect to hear oompah music, they are just as likely to hear John Denver’s “Country Roads” or other more contemporary songs.  Don’t know what it is, but Germans love their John Denver.  Meanwhile dirndl-clad waitresses seemingly fortified by their magnanimous bosoms carry liter-sized mugs, eight at a time, never taking a break.

It really is about the beer

Though, there was no beer provided at the first official Oktoberfest, the beer halls serve approximately 7 million liters of it throughout today’s Fests. According to the German Beer Institute, the extra strong Oktoberfest beer traditionally was produced in the spring as Märzen or March beer “put aside in ice-filled caves or cellars… [and] finished off… in Oktober, when the fresh beers made with the grain and hops from the new harvest season needed to be put into casks.”  Fest beer has a reputation for being maltier, with mellowed hops, and at 5-6.2% in alcohol.  Folks can drink lighter pils that flows just as freely as the Fest beer, of course, and they do so with chicken, pretzels and sausages in breath-taking amounts.  Reportedly, fest-goers gobble sausages at the rate of 1 per every two seconds of the Fest’s business hours.

No surprise then that my husband and friends breakfasted on Bavarian Weisswurst and Brezeln. (steamed white veal sausages, served with a sweet brown mustard, and huge soft pretzels). Because we didn’t have reservations, they took an early train on a Friday morning to get there right when it opened at 10 a.m. They were not alone in the 8,500-seat Augustiner Festhalle, as it was already nearly filled.  Joining him only an hour later, I could barely move through the tent. A few rounds of “Ein Prosit,” the German toasting song that the band plays repeatedly made me soon feel like I had been there since 10 a.m. too!

Our little gaggle amid the sea of revelers. Note how my husband Tony's back touches the folks on the next bench. They packed us in!

But Oktoberfest is made of many tents, so we moved on to the supposedly very hip Hippodrome that includes a sparkling wine bar that I never even saw.  And here, too, the place was packed – with only 4,200 people – but definitely standing room only.  We miraculously found a table and ordered another round.  The cheerful music blared.  Our friends smiled with squinty, beer-heavy eyes.  My ridiculously smiley husband turned and asked how many beers had we already had, which I couldn’t answer.  That’s the bad part about liter-sized Fest beers; they come with a beautiful head and taste so cool and delicious in the sweltering beer tents, but even in small numbers, they seem impossible to count.

Oktoberfest runs until Oct. 3rd and for more information, check out the official Web site at http://www.oktoberfest.de/en/.

A bicycle trip to the Birkenkopf

Riding toward the top, son Peter enjoys the shady woods on a warm summer day in Stuttgart.

Each day as we walk our dog in our little village of Leinfelden, we can look towards Stuttgart and see one hill that sits higher than all the others.  So many times, my husband has talked about hiking or bicycling there, but the time was never right until this weekend when all the stars were aligned. Most significantly the sun was aligned and shining and we began the quest to what we had now nicknamed Mt. Trashmore because of its similarity to so many other Mt. Trashmores in the United States.

In this case, Mt. Trashmore was actually, the Birkenkopf, which is indeed a 511 meter hill within Stuttgart and consists of trash or rubble  from World War II bombing missions.  Also known as Monte Scherbelino or Mt. Shards, a plaque is at the top that translates: This mountain was built after the Second World War from the rubble of the town to stand as a memorial of the dead and a warning to the living.

A view from atop the Birkenkopf

So, there we were on our first bicycle trip of the season.  Sandwiches were packed, water and other cold drinks were in tow to trek approximately 11 km or so to this hill we had only observed from afar.  The day was sunny, but not too hot and we were making better time than expected until…a simple little thumbtack foiled part of our plans.  As my husband broke the cardinal rule of what to do when one finds a nail or thumbtack in one’s tire, we listened and saw air spew from a tire that within seconds was empty and useless.  We had no way to replace or repair it easily.  Our only choice was to divide and conquer.  My son with the newly disabled bike and I returned home via the nearby U-Bahn as my husband and other son Peter continued on to conquer our local mountain.